There is a saying “you can’t go home again”. But as I drive north on Rt 13, I have a hard time believing it. I am surrounded by all things familiar – The smell of the salt air as we cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge tunnel. The sight of soybean and corn fields growing on both sides of the road as my husband drives down the highway. And as we turn down Market St, I feel as if we’re being welcomed by an old friend. There is a feeling of nostalgia here that brings back memories of my youth. And when I see the sun sparkling ahead on the Onancock Creek, I know that we have in fact come home again.
Onancock is a town located about 3 hours east of Richmond, and they have an official LOVE sign in front of the Historic Onancock High School. I was born and raised on the Eastern Shore of VA, just 15 minutes outside of Onancock. But I was younger then, and a bit indifferent to what was around me (I mean, what teenager isn’t). So I took this trip as an opportunity to see the town with fresh eyes, and my husband Brett was with me to keep me honest.
While the current Onancock High School building opened its doors to students in 1921, “the property has been educating children on the Eastern Shore for over 150 years”. Although students no longer fill its halls, the town keeps the building alive by leasing space to local businesses, hosting community events and housing the Eastern Shore Maritime Museum. The museum (open on Saturdays) offers an intimate look into the history of the Shore’s watermen, and their impact on the area. It provided a nice lesson on all things maritime and I was happy my immediate family also got to experience it and join us in the LOVE sign picture.
Not far from the school is a local favorite and along Market St. called the Corner Bakery, which offers its customers some of the best homemade baked goods around. If you love donuts, this is your spot. They also sell drinks by the bottle, cupcakes, and an eastern shore favorite, sweet potato biscuits (they are amazing). We picked up several jelly filled donuts and an orange dreamsicle cupcake – everything was gobbled up that same day.
Once you’re on Market St., there is so much to experience within walking distance. This includes C.D. Marsh Jeweler, famous for their “Chesapeake Bay Bracelet”. When we walked in, I was washed over by wonderful memories as a little girl looking at all of the beautiful treasures. As an adult, I still felt giddy looking at the array of lovely jewelry displayed in their glass cases. It was also an honor to see Joe Ann Marsh there, who opened the store with her now late husband in the early 50s. I could hear the love and pride in her voice as she told me the store has been operating for over 70 years. C.D. Marsh is truly a special place and one not to be missed while in town.
Another special place just a few seconds away is Crockett Gallery. If I had to name one person who could capture the essence of the Eastern Shore on canvas, it was Willie Crockett. His paintings have told a hundred stories – seabirds flying over the marsh, hunters searching for foul, locals boating on the bay, and the simple, unique beauty that makes up the eastern shore scenery. His works are better than photographs, because you can see his love of the land in every paint stroke.
When we’d visit my family on the shore, my husband and I would always stop in his gallery and sign his guest book (I’d always ask him to paint me floral still life). Willie was always happy to see people, and the sound of his voice and his smile would have you grinning back at him.
My husband and I have been visiting him at his gallery for decades, so it was a sad day when Willie passed away in 2021. When we walked in his gallery this time, one of his daughters was there and we talked about all of our visits with him over the years. When I mentioned always wanting a floral, it was like time stopped – She went to the counter and pulled out a mostly completed original floral done by Willie that they’d found just that day. She offered a price and my husband said “there’s no way we’re leaving without that painting”.
Regardless of what you believe in, it felt like a higher power wanted us to have that floral painting by Willie. There was no one else like him, and Brett and I will always remember his voice and his laugh. You are greatly missed Willie. I hope you have infinite landscapes to paint so the angels can enjoy the endless beauty of your work.
After the wonderful (and slightly emotional) gallery visit, it was time for some food, drinks and laughter. I reached out to an old school friend of mine and the three of us met up at Mallards at the Wharf, “the home of Johnny Mo, the musical chef.” If you’re looking to fill your belly with deliciousness and have the best view of Onancock Creek, this is your place. Not only that, the restaurant is located in the historic Hopkins and Brothers Store, built in the mid-1800’s (how cool!).
The menu offers an excellent selection of fresh seafood options, as well as americana type items that will have your mouth watering for all of them. They also host local live bands to add to your dining experience (you might even catch Johnny Mo playing himself). We enjoyed their Mallard Mussels, locally brewed beers from Cape Charles Brewing Company, and the beautiful view of the creek. It was the perfect place to reminisce about old times and catch up on what was new in our lives.
From there, we made our way to North Street Market, a charming store that sells delectable things ranging from fresh cheeses, gourmet food/ snacks, various olive oils and a fine variety of beer and wine. You can also find unique gifts like pottery, kitchen items and the breathtaking aerial photos by At Altitude Gallery. We love coming into this store and always leave with something – That day we purchased several sauces, snacks and a nice bottle of wine. They also offer wine tastings on certain days so you can sip and enjoy some of the finer things in life.
Diagonal across the street, you’ll also find the Red Queen Gallery, which sells a wonderful selection of original art, jewelry, soaps/ lotions, pottery and more. This is a high quality gallery that will have you walking around multiple times to make sure you don’t miss anything. Over the years, we have bought several special gifts here for friends, to include Seafire Candles created by David Crane. These candles are more artwork than wax light – “Cast in marsh mud with mother Earth’s gift of ancient oyster and whelk shells washed up on the beaches of the Mid-Atlantic coast”. No matter your artistic preference, you are sure to find something you’ll love here.
Evening had started to fall, so my husband and I met my parents for dinner at Bizzotto’s Gallery Cafe, “the oldest operating family owned restaurant” in Onancock. While the menu has a bit of an Mediterranean flare, they also serve steak, chicken and of course, fresh local seafood. We were seated at a window table with a view of town, and were promptly waited on by the friendly staff. And while linens cover the tabletops and beautiful artwork adorns the walls, it is a restaurant that wants you to feel at home where there is no fancy dress code required. I enjoyed their chicken parmesan and my mom ordered one of her favorite dishes – Soft shell crab. It was a wonderful end to a fabulous day.
Onancock is a place to love…
Onancock is a place that doesn’t exist anywhere else – Its unique small-town charm will make you feel like someone gave you a rare vintage, and that sweet taste just can’t be replicated. Where time seems to pause, because the town knows that you need to slow down and enjoy life and what’s around you. And when you come here, you will be amazed by all of the wonderful people and places you will experience. If you ever find yourself driving along Rt. 13 on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, Onancock is a town that will LOVE to have you there.
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There are so many people here that I love that I wish I could list them all. First, thank you to my family for joining us for the LOVE sign picture. Next, a shout-out to my long time friend Robie, for meeting us at Mallards and for always being my friend. Also to my husband Brett, who I wish I could take to all of my LOVE sign adventures (because I love you that much).
And I dedicate this blog to two people – Miguel Bizzotto the original owner and visionary of Bizzotto’s Gallery Cafe; and to Willie Crockett the extraordinary talent behind Crockett Gallery – Two people who are greatly missed and will always be remembered by so many on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.
| VA ♥️ Signs Now Visited | Official VA ♥️ Signs |
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A few other points of interest in Onancock:
- Ker Place (One of the Shore’s major architectural landmarks)
- The Blarney Stone (Eastern Shore’s original Irish Pub)
- The Inn at Onancock
- Samuel D. Outlaw Blacksmith Shop Memorial Museum
- Morphosis (“Where music and art come together”)
- Imaginarium by Dana Simpson
- The North Street Playhouse
- The OT, Onancock Taphouse
- Danny Doughty Gallery
- Market Street Grill
- Dogwood Branch (consignment shop)
- The Foggy Place Cafe
- Maurice Restaurant
- Dawn (unique shop for women and home)
- Burnham Guides (paddling shop and kayak/ bike rentals)
- The Roseland Theater
- La Tavola Italian Restaurant
- The Charlotte Hotel & Restaurant
Is this your first Leah LOVES Virginia blog post read? Thank you for taking the time to visit. If you’re wondering how this adventure got started, check-out my first blog post and my about page. Want to stay connected? It’s super easy and you’ll only hear from me when a new blog gets posted. You can also follow along by friending me on my Leah LOVES Virginia Facebook page.
Important note: I always do my best to ensure everything I include in my blogs are factual and that I also give credit and use quotations when pulling information from sources. If you believe there is something included here that needs to be addressed, please email me directly as I want to be sure it is fixed. Thank you and happy LOVE sign hunting.
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